Vension Cookbook 
 Book Review
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2004-5 Season

 

There is an art to preparing venison, make no mistake about it. Venison lacks fat (18% vs. 35% for a beef round tip), which may make it a heart healthy meat, but also tends to make it dry out during roasting. Too, there is the problem of too much of a good thing. The same meat, served the same way, week in and week out, can be boring in the extreme.

So when Harold Webster Jr's new book The Complete Venison Cookbook arrived... I promptly sent it on to my old friend Ruth. Not only is Ruth the sort of person who finds reading cookbooks interesting, Ruth, by necessity, has become something of an expert with venison.Venison, in fact, makes up a large part of her family's winter diet, along with the contents of her substantial garden.

I was curious to know if this was a cookbook for dabblers, or if there was real family fare here, that could be produced in the average kitchen without resorting to multiple trips to the gourmet food store.

Ruth reports that she skimmed the section on Elegant Venison. "Venison isn't something that should be served to company," she says and although the author does suggest grinding the venison for some recipes, she can't be bothered. She "chunks" it.

According to my friend, the book's strong points are Stroganoffs, Chilies and Stews. There is also a nice selection of recipes, some of which make use of convenience foods, many of which don't, all of which are straightforward and good.

Then there is the section of sausages and sausage dishes. "All that smoking and drying...very time consuming," sighs Ruth.

The Best Part of the Venison Cookbook is not on Venison at all!

Almost one quarter of the book is devoted to Side Dishes, Bread, Deserts, and what the author calls Lagniappe (a bit extra). It was, I'm quite sure, this section of the book that guaranteed I'll never see my copy of The Complete Venison Cookbook again. This is where Harold Webster has really done his stuff. From a recipe for Boston Baked Beans "that actually comes out right!" to a recipe for Homemade Raspberry Wine with only the slightest flaw (it calls for two water buckets of raspberries) the book shines.

Our final analysis? A good book for an inexperienced cook who doesn't want to ruin a decent cut of meat, and a very good book for someone who's a bit bored by the recipes they've been using for the past zillion years. We're wondering if blackberries can be substituted in the raspberry wine recipe.


Tamara Burke

 

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