There are really two Vermonts. There's the one that most people see: quaint little shops, roadside farms populated  by Holstein cows, and picturesque covered bridges. Then there's the Vermont  that only the luckiest visitors experience: a pristine forest whose silence  positively roars, the way morning light playfully dances off virgin snow,  and the delight of rounding a bend and surprising a herd of foraging deer.

Sound like a fantasy? It's not. In fact, it's more accessible than you might imagine. Just wait for the snow  to fly, strap on a pair of snowshoes, and go. When most people think of snowshoes, they think of large wooden behemoths mounted over fireplaces. But time and  technology has changed all that. Wood is now aircraft-grade aluminum and rawhide  is now space age plastic. The result is a light, smooth, comfortable ride over any kind of terrain.

For many people though, venturing  into the woods can be intimidating. But Vermont's backcountry is criss-crossed by a vast maze abandoned logging roads, snowmobile routes, and other forest trails. Although it's never been officially measured, there are probably as  many miles of these trails as there are paved roads. And believe it or not,  there are very detailed maps available.

A call to the Woodstock or Quechee Chamber of Commerce will produce maps of public lands, but even in Vermont most land is privately owned (for liability reasons, they will not steer you  onto private land). To really get a taste of the backcountry, your best bet is to get a hold of a VAST (Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) map by calling (802) 229-0005 For backcountry adventurers, these maps are like secret  maps to buried treasure--fantastic routes traversing high ridges, meandering paths through hidden hollows, and serpentine trails along frozen brooks--all  clearly marked with route numbers and arrows.

A cyber option is to log onto the  Tubbs Trailnet, a comprehensive website maintained by Tubbs Snowshoes, one of the industry's leading manufacturers. It will help you find trails to suit your location and ability not only in Vermont but throughout the country.  They don't furnish maps, but they will give you some great ideas. The address  is www.tubbssnowshoes.com

Another choice is to call the U.S. Forest Service. While there is no National Forest in either Woodstock or Quechee, you'll find an enormous wealth of public land in nearby Rochester. For trail  information call the Rochester Ranger District at (802) 767-4261.

A few words of caution here: 1. Never travel into unfamiliar territory alone. 2. Always tell someone where you're going. 3. Always check the weather before you go out. 4. Dress appropriately. If you equip yourself with a good pair  of snowshoes, a map, a little common sense, and a sense of adventure, you'll be rewarded with a fantastic look at the side of Vermont that's impossible to see from the pavement.

Don Phillips